Winter Restoration: How to Repair a Snow Blower Auger Patch by Welding

When the snow starts piling up, your snow blower is your best friend—until a hidden rock or a chunk of ice tears a hole in the auger. The auger is the rotating "corkscrew" that chews through snow and feeds it into the impeller. Because it spins at high speeds, a jagged hole or a weak spot creates an imbalance that can vibrate your machine to pieces.

Patching an auger is a classic fabrication task. By welding in a custom patch, you restore the structural integrity and the "throwing power" of your machine for a fraction of the cost of a replacement part.

Step 1: Determine the Material

Snow blower augers are almost universally made of stamped mild steel.

• The Magnet Test: A magnet will stick firmly.
• The Thickness: Most auger "flights" (the curved blades) are between 10-gauge and 12-gauge steel. This is thick enough to handle a solid weld but thin enough that you must be careful not to warp the curve of the blade.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools

• Welder: A MIG welder is the best tool for this job. It handles thin-to-medium steel effortlessly and produces a clean, strong bead.
• Angle Grinder: You’ll need a cutting wheel to trim the damaged area and a flap disc (60 grit) for cleaning.
• Cardboard & Scissors: To create a template for your patch.
• Scrap Steel: A piece of mild steel of the same thickness as your auger (check your local scrap bin or hardware store).
• C-Clamps or Locking Pliers: To hold the patch flush against the curve.

Step 3: Safety Concerns

• Fuel Safety: Crucial! You are welding on a machine that contains gasoline and oil. Drain the fuel tank or move the auger assembly at least 20 feet away from the machine before welding.
• Spark Management: Snow blower housings often have plastic liners or rubber "chute" parts. Protect these with a welding blanket or damp rags.
• Eye Protection: Use an auto-darkening helmet. Since you'll be welding inside the "bucket" of the blower, lighting can be tricky; a helmet with a bright grind-mode helps.

Step 4: Preparation

1. Cut Out the Cancer: Use your cutting wheel to trim away the jagged, torn, or rusted metal. A clean, square, or circular hole is much easier to patch than a jagged rip.
2. Make a Template: Press a piece of cardboard against the hole and trace the shape. Cut the cardboard out, then trace it onto your scrap steel.
3. Pre-Bend the Patch: Most augers are curved. Place your steel patch on a piece of pipe or a vice and gently hammer it until it matches the "radius" (the curve) of the auger blade.
4. Grind to Shine: Clean the edges of the hole and the edges of your patch until they are bright silver.

Step 5: How to Do It (The Easy Way)

• The Flush Fit: Place the patch into the hole. You want a "butt weld" (edges touching).
• Tack and Adjust: Place one tack weld. Use a hammer to tap the patch so it sits perfectly flush with the rest of the blade, then tack the opposite side.
• Stitch Welding: To prevent the auger from warping (which would make it hit the housing), weld in 1-inch sections. Weld a bit, move to the other side, and let it cool.
• Fill the Gap: Ensure your weld "burns in" to both the patch and the original blade for a seamless, structural bond.

Step 6: Make it Beautiful

1. Grind it Smooth: Use a flap disc to grind the weld beads flat on both sides of the auger blade. If the weld is lumpy, snow and ice will "stick" to it, causing a clog.
2. Balance Check: Give the auger a spin by hand. It should move freely without wobbling.
3. The Finish: Use a high-quality "Equipment Orange" or "Red" spray paint (matching your brand like Ariens, Toro, or Craftsman). For extra performance, apply a coat of silicone spray or car wax over the repair to help the snow slide off.